Day 6 of Paris fashion week saw designers summoning the ghosts of the long-forgotten past. Balenciaga’s Demna, fresh out of a hiatus, re-assembled the house’s expansive archives with his newfound flair, while century-old Akris went back to the 70s. Keep reading to discover more and make sure to check out our picks for day 5 here.
Here are our picks of the most memorable shows from Paris Fashion Week Day 6:
Bruno Sialelli of Lanvin commandeered our imaginations towards a place of yesteryear, bludgeoning the barriers of time with the autumn 2023 collection. Rich and vibrant hues cascaded through the collection, mirroring that of the faux exotic skins of double-breasted coats. Tinselly velvets and fluffily knitted wools grounded the collection in the realm of quasi-grandiosity. Polka dots, a signature of Lanvin, were not to be forgotten; instead, they were innovatively reimagined in crushed velvet on an ultra-high-waisted asymmetric skirt and a sleeveless dress, while they also took on a new form of studded applique on a magenta shirt, a men’s coat, or a women’s coat dress in teal blue.
A scandal came to light when two Balenciaga campaigns were unveiled back in November, the reverberations of which were felt across the entirety of fashion. But by the time Paris Fashion Week had come to its fore, Demna was ready to show a renewed vision of the legacy brand’s evolution. There were no logos, no frills, nothing to distract from the beauty of the garments. Tailored looks made from upcycled trousers opened the show, succeeded by bishop-sleeved dresses with turtlenecks and billowing floral pieces with boldly cut shoulders. The finale was a stunning collection of evening gowns adorned with lustrous beading and intricate lace, sequins, and tinsel, each as majestic as the last and all united by the signature raised shoulders.
The black tie. It represents something eternal, something that transcends language. A symbol that, while conveying nothing, speaks volumes to those who know how to interpret it. Such was the theory of Mr. Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino. At the Valentino Autumn 2023 show, the black tie brought together a melange of unique personalities in a single, unifying motif. One could admire the tailored numbers with their short thighs-wrapping shorts. One could marvel at the maison’s couturian feathery coats, updated with a tasteful trim. Even the social media sensation from last season, the inimitable Valentino pink, seemed to bask in its well-deserved glory through tasteful accessories. It was yet another triumphant showcase from the Italian fashion house—and the black tie was once again its guiding light.
The 70s, which Albert Kriemler of Akris referred to as the “real seeds of change”, served as the source of creativity for his Autumn 2023 collection. He combined different textiles – velvet and neoprene – to create liquid silhouettes for the moss-green gown and the black jumpsuit. At the end of the show, Kriemler displayed his skill for layering, with dreamy prairie dresses showcased under fur-trimmed vests and shearling coats in maroons, slate greys, and the signature moss green. It was a sight that displayed the designer’s revolutionary vision, just like the 70s brought forth a wave of innovative ideas.